Some places never go out of style. Le Train Bleu is one of them. Long before it became Instagrammable, this restaurant had earned its place in the golden age of travel — when luxury was expected, and train stations were cathedrals of movement, not just logistics.
Opened in 1901 within Gare de Lyon for the Exposition Universelle (the same era that gave us the Grand and Petit Palais), this grand dining room was designed to impress travellers heading south to the Côte d’Azur. Named after the famous “Blue Train” that once whisked passengers to the Riviera, it remains a time capsule of the Belle Époque, where gilded ceilings and silver service still set the tone.
It’s the kind of place that reminds you what fine dining used to mean — not molecular fuss or theatrical menus, but timeless service, classic dishes, and the pleasure of taking your time.
We’ve wanted to dine here for some time. On our recent fahsionable long weekend in Paris, we finally booked a table — and this is our review of the experience.
Inside One of Paris’ Most Beautiful Restaurants
Le Train Bleu sits above the platforms at Gare de Lyon, but once you’re inside, the station disappears. The high, vaulted ceilings are lavishly adorned with frescoes and ornate plasterwork, depicting romanticised scenes from across France — Villefranche, Monaco, Grasse — reminders of where one might be headed next.
Chandeliers glint softly above crisp linen and polished brass. The wood-panelled booths, etched mirrors, and navy carpet runners all echo a time when dining was part of the journey, not something you rushed through beforehand.
The space is arranged into what feels like three distinct rooms: two main restaurant areas and a smaller lounge or bar off to the side. We were seated in the first, with a perfect view of the gentle bustle within and the steady rhythm of trains pulling in below.
They’re used to travellers here. The layout allows for suitcases to be stowed discreetly, and despite the restaurant’s size, it never feels chaotic. There’s a rhythm to the service — elegant, composed, and entirely unhurried.
A Table Worth Dressing For
The room is striking, but it’s the staff who bring it to life. Waiters in tailored dark suits, hostesses with neat yellow ribbon scarves, all moving with the grace of a well-rehearsed ballet. Service is confident, charming, and utterly professional — present without ever being overbearing.
This is the kind of restaurant that welcomes a little ceremony — and that includes how you dress. We enjoy making an occasion of it, and Le Train Bleu gives you permission to do just that. Jackets, tailoring, a little fragrance — it all feels right in a setting like this.
It felt only appropriate to bring some blue to the palette: a classic Valentino dress and baby blue Chanel bag for her; a blue blazer for me — somewhere between Miami Vice and Michael Portillo’s Great Railway Journeys. Seemed fitting.
That said, it’s not rigid. At the next table, someone wore a worn Fleetwood Mac T-shirt, and it somehow worked. The space accommodates both ends of the spectrum — polished and playful — without judgement. A rare feat.
Whether you’re in linen or leather, it’s a place where style still has a seat at the table.
Le Train Bleu Paris: Three-Course Dining Experience
We began, as one should, with a sense of occasion. Two elegant starters set the tone:
White asparagus, thick and tender, served simply but beautifully. Always a treat — especially before the UK season begins.
A crab salad, delicately plated. Two styles of crab — fresh and sweet, then crisp and golden — layered with avocado, fine greens, and edible purple flowers. A dish that looked as good as it tasted.
For the main course, I had the roast lamb, carved tableside with understated ceremony. It came with dauphinoise potatoes, which were exactly as they should be: rich, creamy, crisp-edged — deeply satisfying.
Across the table, the salmon was lighter — gently cooked, restrained, and full of flavour without unnecessary embellishment.
We ended with crêpes flambéed tableside. Yes, it’s a cliché. And no, it never gets old.
Wines Worth Noting
We started with two glasses of Collet Brut Champagne — bright, balanced, and elegant. I’ve already made a note to find a few bottles back home.
But the standout came later. With rosé season nearly upon us, I leaned into the mood and the region, choosing a crisp Château Carpe Diem, Côtes de Provence 2022 — picked as much for its sentiment and setting as for its freshness. A wine I wouldn’t usually come across at home, but all the more enjoyable for that.
“Cueille le jour présent, sans te soucier du lendemain.”
Seize the present day, without concern for tomorrow.
— Horace
It felt apt. And honestly, what more could you want from lunch?
Is Le Train Bleu Worth It?
Our bill came to just over €340. For three courses, a bottle of water, champagne, wine, and coffee — in one of the most iconic restaurants in Paris — that felt fair.
Yes, it’s expensive. But you’re not just paying for food. You’re paying for ceremony, atmosphere, a sense of occasion.
And we’ll absolutely return.
Before You Visit Le Train Bleu: Practical Tips
A few things worth knowing:
- Book ahead. Even off-peak, this is a popular destination.
- Allow extra time if travelling by taxi. The approach to Gare de Lyon is narrow and often backed up — especially before holidays.
- The Metro is faster. From Madeleine (near the Sofitel) to Gare de Lyon is about 15 minutes, though we opted for a taxi in our lunch attire.
- There’s a bar lounge at the entrance. If you’re short on time or budget, it’s a more relaxed alternative. You won’t get the full experience, but you’ll still get a glimpse of the grandeur.
📍 Le Train Bleu, Gare de Lyon, Place Louis-Armand, 75012 Paris, France
