Dinner at Les Remparts - one of the finest restaurant views in the South of France
Set high above the Riviera, Les Remparts is the relaxed outdoor restaurant of the luxury Château de La Chèvre d’Or in Èze. With sweeping views, refined local flavours, and one of the most photogenic terraces in France, it’s a place we return to time and time again.
Dinner at Les Remparts at the Hôtel Château de La Chèvre d’Or in Èze counts as one of my favourite dining experiences in the world. This isn't the Michelin-starred restaurant (that’s upstairs), nor is it especially large. But the food is excellent, the service is on point, and the views are simply unforgettable.
Our latest visit was in July 2024, our first time back since a wonderful long weekend staying at the Chèvre d’Or in 2022. If you’re looking for a special dinner in the South of France, or planning a long weekend in Èze, then Les Remparts needs to be on your list.
Let me show you why.
Les Remparts: Restaurant Location
Les Remparts translates to "the walls" or ramparts, like you'd find in a castle. It’s the main outdoor restaurant of the luxury hotel Château de La Chèvre d’Or and sits on a narrow clifftop terrace at the edge of the hotel. Almost every table hugs the wall (don’t worry, there’s a large stone barrier), giving everyone uninterrupted views over the bay.
Directly below, you’ll see the hotel grounds and guest rooms. But beyond that: an uninterrupted panorama stretching out toward Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat. There’s no better view than watching the sun dip into the sea as you sip a chilled glass of rosé.
What’s on the Menu at Les Remparts?
The menu at Les Remparts strikes a careful balance between Riviera elegance and relaxed luxury. While not overly long, it offers something for everyone — whether you’re staying for one night or three. And because the menu doesn’t change daily, you can explore a few dishes across multiple visits before considering a change of scene (we’ve rounded up more options nearby in our Nice Eats guide).
To start, you might enjoy the Sanremo red shrimp, served raw with grilled avocado and a delicate iodised pil-pil sauce — light, luxurious, and beautifully presented. Vegetarians can opt for the semi-candied heart-of-beef tomato, paired with watermelon and fig-leaf vinaigrette, while the contemporary Niçoise salad is a local take on the classic, with velvety tonnato and crisped olive oil for texture.
For mains, the grilled John Dory is a standout: paired with a spring pea ragout, rhubarb, and elderflower sabayon, it’s a fragrant and elegant dish that captures the coastal setting. Meat lovers might prefer the braised lamb shoulder, finished with a modern Niçois olive stew and a touch of orange. There’s also a comforting aubergine Parmigiana, lightened with basil cream and just enough mozzarella.
There are good vegetarian options across the menu, and the team are happy to accommodate dietary requirements if you let them know when ordering.
Desserts come via renowned pastry chef Florent Margaillan, whose à la Parisienne pastries are almost too pretty to eat — but you’ll be glad you did. And if you can’t decide, there’s a whole dessert trolley to tempt you.
What to Wear: Dress Code at Les Remparts
The dress code at Les Remparts is set to impress — this is the kind of place where you’ll want to look your best, but without the formality of a Michelin-starred dining room.
For gentlemen, a smart pair of trousers and a shirt will do nicely. You won’t need a jacket up here unless you want to make a statement — and you absolutely can. I’ve gone bold before, but chinos and a polo shirt won’t look out of place either.
“and you’re wearing that are you Basil?”
For ladies, this is a wonderful setting to dress up a little. Just note that getting to the restaurant — and back to the loos — involves a few sets of stone steps, so if you’re in heels, you may want to pack a pair of flats for the walk.
It rarely gets cold, even in the evening, but a light wrap or jumper might be worth bringing — just in case.
Dining with a View: Why Les Remparts is So Photogenic
Les Remparts is set on a terrace with what looks like a sheer drop to the bay far, far below. South-facing and open to the light, the terrace basks in sunshine from breakfast through to dinner. Almost every table is placed along the edge (behind a reassuringly solid wall), so everyone gets a front-row view — and what a view it is.
Framed by the restaurant’s iconic lamps, you can sip Rosé as the sun sets across the Riviera, shifting the colours from bright blues and golds to dusky pinks and soft purples. On clear nights, you might catch the full moon rising and reflecting on the bay below. I never tire of taking photos here. The light is different every time — and always beautiful.
Why Choose Les Remparts over the Michelin Star Upstairs?
The Michelin-starred La Chèvre d’Or upstairs is an experience worth having at least once. But while the fine dining room offers the same view, you're seeing it through glass, framed by elegant drapes and softened by artificial light. It’s impressive, but it doesn’t quite match the sense of air, space, and connection you get from dining al fresco on the terrace.
Perhaps because we spend so much of our time in the UK eating indoors, we’ll nearly always choose a table outside when we can. Les Remparts offers that — with consistently good food, fair prices, and one of the finest dining views in the South of France. That’s why we return again and again.
Service and Ambience
The restaurant service, like the hotel, is excellent. The staff are attentive without being overbearing, and the pace of the meal feels perfectly timed. As the sun sets, the service slows just enough to let you linger over that final glass of Rosé. We’ve never felt rushed or nudged out for a second sitting.
There’s no loud music here, just the gentle clink of glasses and the occasional French accent drifting over from the next table. On some evenings, a faint whiff of Gauloises in the breeze is all it takes to remind you exactly where you are.
How to Book
You can book directly online via the Château de la Chèvre d’Or website. Reservations need to be secured with a credit card. On our most recent visit, the booking required a card guarantee of €300 — not charged unless you fail to show up or cancel less than 12 hours before your reservation.
Getting to Les Remparts
If you're not staying at the hotel — or anywhere within the pedestrian village of Èze — you'll need to arrange a taxi. The hilltop village is entirely car-free, so most visitors will be dropped at the main gate. From there, it’s only a short walk to the restaurant, but it does involve cobbled paths and a few steps (see our note about packing flats if you’re in heels).
Some experienced drivers — especially those booked via the hotel — can take you up to the hotel’s private car park. It’s the same for the return journey, so allow a few extra minutes when making your booking to factor in the walk up or down
Pin It!
More South of France Inspiration
