Of all the stops on our Japan cruise, Nagasaki was the one I was most looking forward to. ‘Looking forward’ may not be the right phrase because I wanted to see, first hand, the city that was devastated in the Second World War. I wanted to see the place I’d read so much about, and I am so glad I did.
Sailing in through the massive port area, you could clearly see this was and is a major industrial city – huge shipyards and cranes hugged the shoreline for what felt like miles as we glided into Port.
We had a packed day of shore excursions, digging into the ancient and modern history of this Japanese city. While Kagoshima was steeped in feudal history and industrial progress, Nagasaki was a city of trade, tragedy, and transformation.
As Japan’s only open port to the outside world, I learned, during the Edo period, Nagasaki became a hub of foreign influence, particularly through the Dutch trading post at Dejima. But alongside this cosmopolitan past, it also carries a deep connection to one of the world’s most devastating moments in history.
The Former Glover House – the oldest Western house in Japan
Perhced high above the city was the Glover Garden, home to some of the best-preserved Western-style mansions in Japan. The centrepiece, the Former Glover House, was built for Scottish merchant Thomas Glover in the late 19th century. From a start selling Green Tea, the Scot would end up with a fortune from trading arms, shipbuilding he would go on to found what became the Mitsubishi Corporation and the Kirin Brewery company.
Wandering through the house, we could see how European architecture blended with Japanese elements—verandas with sweeping harbour views, tatami mat rooms sitting alongside grand parlours, and intricate woodwork reflecting both influences.
Even with the overcast skies, the elevated setting of Glover Garden provided panoramic views over Nagasaki Bay. The rain may have softened the colours, but there was no doubting the location!
Dejima: Japan’s Gateway to the World
Almost over the road from the Nagasaki Cruise Terminal, Dejima is a small, fan-shaped island that once served as Japan’s only connection to the outside world. During Japan’s self-imposed isolation (sakoku), Dejima was its only sanctioned contact with the outside world. While Kagoshima played a role in industrialisation, Nagasaki was where ideas, goods, and cultures discreetly slipped through Japan’s closed doors. Some of those influences can still be seen today.
Walking through Dejima today, it’s hard to imagine that for over 200 years, this small enclave was Japan’s only window to the West. The carefully restored warehouses, merchants’ homes, and trading offices offered a fascinating look at life during Japan’s self-imposed isolation. Informative exhibits detailed how Dutch traders introduced new ideas, medicines, and even culinary influences—many of which subtly shaped Japanese culture over time.
It was strange to walk through the peaceful streets of this ancient town whilst the hum of the modern city was all around us. As I would find with many of the shore excursions on this cruise, there was always somethign new to learn!
After an enjoyable lunch the Hotel New Nagasaki we were off to the main event – the Atomic Bomb museum and peace garden.
The Nagasaki Atomic Bomb Museum: A Story That Must Be Told
Visiting the Nagasaki Atomic Bomb Museum was always going to be a difficult experience. I even debated whether I should write about it. But a simple sign at the museum’s entrance made it clear—this story must be told.
Unlike many historical sites, this wasn’t a place for interpretation or opinion—it simply presented the facts. There was no blame, no embellishment—just the truth of what happened on 9 August 1945.
The exhibits were harrowing but necessary: melted bottles fused together by the intense heat, shadows of people etched into stone, and the twisted remnants of everyday objects left behind. It was impossible not to feel the weight of history in that space.
But what stayed with me most was not just the devastation—it was the hope and resilience that followed – and a commitment this must never happen again.
HypoCenter Park
In any other city you’d think this little park was simply a green space for dog walking and maybe a bit to eat in the sunshine. But no, this was Hypocenter Park marking the exact spot, Ground Zero, where the bomb was detonated just 500 metres above the city.
To put that in context, that’s just 170 metres higher than the top of the Eiffel Tower or 50 metres above the Empire State Building. It would have detonated lower than the Skytower in Tokyo, had it been built at the time.
A simple sign in the park stands as a stark reminder of the immense human cost of the atomic bombing on August 9, 1945. It records the official number of those who lost their lives as a result of the explosion, radiation, and its long-term effects—192,310 people, as of August 9, 2022.
The Peace Park and the Cranes of Remembrance
Just a short walk away from the museum, the Nagasaki Peace Park stands as a symbol of remembrance and renewal.
At its centre, the striking Peace Statue sits with one hand pointing to the sky to represent the bomb, and the other stretched outward as a sign of peace. Around it, messages of hope and reconciliation are written in different languages, reflecting Nagasaki’s global significance.
Perhaps the most moving part of the park was the thousands of colourful paper cranes left by visitors from around the world. These origami cranes, inspired by the story of Sadako Sasaki, have become a symbol of peace and remembrance, each one carrying a wish for a future without nuclear weapons.
I was genuinely moved to be here.
Nagasaki – An Unforgettable History Lesson
Nagasaki left a lasting impression. It was a city of contrasts—a place of beauty, history, resilience, and remembrance. From the elegance of Glover Garden to the solemnity of the Atomic Bomb Museum, this was a stop that educated, and inspired in equal measure.
While Nagasaki carries its history with quiet dignity, it is far from a city frozen in time. The bustling port, vibrant Chinatown, and thriving industries show how it has rebuilt itself, not just as a place of remembrance, but as a thriving modern city. To be honest, it was so much more than I was expecting. To see some much greenery and beauty was one thing, to enjoy such warm and welcome to us, Westerners, was humbling. Maybe I should have known that before I went, but that’s beauty of a cruise.
If you’re on a Japan cruise, I would strongly recommend taking time to experience both the layers of history and the warmth of its people.
